Kashmir is the land of Rishi Kashyap, a land that has given us Kashmir Shaivism. This is where Acharya Abhinavagupta once lived. It was once full of Kashmir temples and more than temples, the devotees who prayed and lived close to the divine.
It has been through turbulent times and that have impacted the temples. Their devotees driven away, they laid in abandonment. With the peace slowly making its way back in the valley, the tourists are back, and hopefully the Kashmiris will be back too.
Pilgrims never left the valley, they continued to visit it yatras like Amarnath Yatra. In my opinion, this is a thread that kept Kashmir bound to India like no other.
Must See Kashmir Temples In & Around Srinagar
I had the opportunity to visit Srinagar in June 2024, and I promptly used this to visit as many temples as I can in and around Srinagar. So, here is what I saw in 2-3 days and you can also easily see them. They are not too far and can be easily visited along with your other sightseeing activity.
Shankaracharya Temple on Gopadri Hill in Srinagar
Located on the top of the hill now called Shankaracharya, overlooking the Shikara laden Dal Lake is the famous Shankaracharya Temple. The real name of the temple is Jyeshtheshwara Temple. It is dedicated to Shiva as Jyeshtheshwara. The hill was originally called Gopadri Hill.
As per 12th CE author Kalhana, the temple dates to at least 4th BCE.
It is believed that the hill and the temple were visited by Adi Shankaracharya.
Shankaracharya Visit
The story goes that Shankaracharya ji had his first rendezvous with the Devi on this hill. He was tired and sitting under a tree. A Kashmiri woman passed by and he asked her to give him water and food. She then challenged him to do anything without Shakti. This is when Shankaracharya realised that even Shiva can not do anything without Shakti, so how can he.
He then went on to write the extraordinary poem Saundarya Lahari in honor of the Devi along with many other Stotras. After returning from Kashmir, he setup his four ashramas in four corners of India. First of these was Sharada Peetha at Sringeri on the banks of Tunga River in present day Karnataka. Remember Sharada Devi is called Kashmirpurvasini or the one who dwells in Kashmir.
Jyeshtha Devi Temple at base of Gopadri Hill
Located very close to the Raj Bhavan and army area, this ancient temple in wood is beautiful. A tiny temple, surrounded by water on all sides that is viewed from a mandapa that is not really connected to the garbhagriha.
Jyeshtha Devi is the elder sister of Lakshmi, also known as Alakshmi.
The temple complex that is on the slope of the hill, has many small temples. There is a Shiva temple where a regular worship is performed. There is another small Shiva temple that you see after climbing a few steps. A Sharika Devi temple has been re-created here, and you can see the Shila being decorated with coins.
The campus is beautiful. You feel peace as you walk around. You see some ancient stone murtis, some of which are still being worshiped. The board around the temple tells me that this is a frequently visited and worshiped temple.
Sharika Devi Temple on Hari Parbat in Srinagar
Sharika Devi is the presiding goddess of Srinagar. The city is in fact named after her. Her temple is located bang in the middle of the old city on top of Hariparbat.
The temple overlooks the city of Srinagar. It stands out in my memory for the giant Sri Chakra carved on the huge rock. This rock with Sri Chakra is worshiped here.
Read my detailed post on Sharika Devi Temple and listen to this episode on Hariparbat Parikrama on Detours Podcast.
Ancient Ganesh Temple
It is located at the base of the Hariparbat. This is the temple from which the Hariparbat Parikrama started. The Ganesha is in the form of a huge rock. Its natural shape is in the form of Ganapati.
It is not easy to locate this temple, and you may need some local help.
Pandrethan Temple at Badami Bagh in Srinagar
Pandrethan was once a village where the great Bhakti poet Laldeh was born. Today it is a part of the military cantonement, and precisely for this reason, a very well maintained and well worshiped temple. You need Army permission to visit this temple.
Dedicated to Shiva, this 10th CE temple is believed to be built by Meruvardhana, a minister of the king Partha. Some records call it Vishnu Meruvardhana temple, but the image of Lakulish form of Shiva on the Lalaat or forehead of the temple clearly establishes it as a Shiva temple.
The temple architecture is a typical Kashmiri one. A small square temple, a little less than 18 feet in size, is surrounded by water all around. I guess, the source of water must have a natural spring as they are found in abundance in the Kashmir valley. You must use a wooden bridge to go inside the stone temple.
The Shivalinga has been recently installed. However, the space is ancient and the serene energy can be easily felt here.
I am thankful to the Indian Army, who helped me perform Abhishek at this ancient temple. However, more thankful to them for preserving the temple beautifully and keeping it practicing. A pandit ji from UP helped me perform the Abhishek.
Martand Sun Temple near Anantnag
Kashmir gets its name from Rishi Kashyap, who lived here once upon a time. Maybe he continues to live here, even today. Sun or Aditya is his son from his wife Aditi. So, Kashmir in a way is the home of Sun.
Martand is one of the names of the Sun, as it was born from a Mrit Anda or a dead Sun.
Read my detailed post on Martand Sun Temple in Kashmir
When you visit Martand Sun temple from Srinagar, you must also stop at the Sun Temple at Mattan. This is a temple complex next to a huge pond, which is still practicing. It is located about 5 kms from the ancient temple.
Awantiswami Temple at Awantipora
Located very close to Srinagar Anantnag Road and on the way to Martand Sun Temple.
The ruins of the ancient Vishnu temple are enclosed and protected by ASI. The temple was built in 9th CE by king Avantiverman for Vishnu. You can visualize the grandness of the temple as you walk down the stairs leading to the ruins of the temple.
The carvings here are better preserved than the Martand Temple. On some of the panels you can see Avantiverman with his two wives and sculptures of Kamdeva. You can see Navagraha panels. Walls give a general impression of being profusely carved.
The corridor that goes around the periphery of the temple would have contained small temples. You can see different types of pillar designs that have managed to survive invasions, Sun, and snow.
Locals call this temple Pandava Lari and believe that Pandavas built it during their exile. The belief is that such grand temples can be built only by someone as divine as the Pandavas.
Kheer Bhawali Temple at Tulmul, Ganderbal
This temple is located north of Srinagar but can easily be done in few hours. It is one of the most powerful temples I found of all the Kashmir temples I visited in Kashmir.
Read our detailed post on Kheer Bhawani
Sinking Shiva Temple near Manasbal Lake
At the edge of the Manasbal lake, just a few kms from Kheer Bhawani Temple, is this small temple. All you see is the Shikhara that appears to be sinking.
The temple looks like the Pandrethan temple and is dedicated to Shiva. You can see the tank all around.
Board next to the temple incidentally quotes from Wikipedia instead of authentic sources.
I am sure there are many more temples. I would write about them as and when I get an opportunity to visit them.
Travel Tips for Kashmir Temples
You can do all the Srinagar city temples in one day.
Do Martand, Mattan and Awantiswami temple together and on your return, you can stop at Pandrethan temple.
Kheer Bhawani and Manasbal temples can be done together.
All temples are small and were not at all crowded when I visited.
