Sanchi Stupa – The Great Stupa With Buddha Relics

There is a Chhatravalli or crown with triple umbrellas at the top of the Stupa. They symbolize the three tenets of Buddhism i.e. Buddham Sharanam Gachhami, Dhammam Sharanam Ghachhami, and Sangham Sharnam Gachhami.

Stupa 1 measures 36.6 meters in diameter and is 16.46 meters high without counting the Chhatravalli.

Balustrades or cross bars forming the circumambulatory path have stones that were donated by donors from across the country. These donor inscriptions are a great source of information about those times.

The original stupa was made of terracotta and is hidden inside the present-day Stupa. During its restoration, a layer of bricks and lime mortar was added on top of the original stupa. The lime layer has started to come off and gives an interesting character to the whole structure.

Stone encasing, terrace, balustrades, Harmika, and railing around Chhatravalli were added as part of the restoration.

Torans of Sanchi Stupa 1

Decorated Torans on the four sides are the highlight of this site. These were built in 1st BCE during the rule of Satvahanas as indicated by an inscription on southern Toran.

Each Toran is made of three horizontal panels placed on two pillars and joined together with smaller vertical stones. Both Toran and its pillars are intricately carved on all sides. The upper part of the Toran is depicted as being carried by elephants, lions, or Gandharvas. Expressions of the Gandharvas on western Toran are worth noticing with various emotions of carrying the weight depicted. The horizontal panels carry a spiral on both sides.

Cross bars create 8 squares that have horse or elephant riders. Shalbhanjikas can be seen on the projections joining the pillar and the end of the horizontal panel. On top of the toran is Dharma Chakra flanked by Chamara bearers and decorated Tri-Ratna.

Builders of these torans were ivory carvers. Their hand is evident in the fine work of carvings.

The carvings on the Torans include

• Symbols of Buddhism like lotus, chakras, and stupas
• Scenes from the life of Buddha like his birth through Maya’s dream, enlightenment depicted by the Bodhi tree, first sermon depicted through chakra or wheel, and death depicted through Stupa. Yes, Buddha is depicted through his symbols rather than his human form. Other scenes include his departure from Kapilavastu, Sujata’s offering, war with Maras, etc.
• Jataka tales that tell us stories of Bodhisattvas like
  • Chhaddanta Jataka on Southern, Western & North Toran
  • Sama Jataka on Pillar of West Toran
  • Mahakapi Jataka on Pillar of Western Gateway
  • Vesantara Jataka on both sides of the North gateway
  • Alambasa Jataka on North Gareway
• Events in the History of Buddhism
• Scenes from the everyday life of a Buddhist
• Ashoka chakra and the four lions
• Decorative Motifs

The southern Toran is the primary Toran and was the first erected. It leads to the stairs that take you to the top of the Stupa. It carries the Ashoka symbol of four loins. Ashoka Pillar also stood next to this Toran. Only its lower part remains in situ. It is also the most damaged one, while the north one is best preserved.

Buddha Images at Sanchi Stupa

As you enter through any of the four openings or torans, you see a large Buddha image sitting beneath a canopy, exuberating calm. These images belong to the Gupta period and were added around 450 CE. He seems to be sitting against the stupa wall meditating in Dhyan Mudra with elaborate halos behind them.

Later Enhancements to the heritage monument

Various temples around the stupa were built or enhanced at various times. This indicates that the monument was living till about the 7-8th century CE. After that, this was lost in the jungles. A lot of damage was done to it by people who removed anything that they could use found from the place. They broke the Ashoka pillar and used it to extract sugarcane juice.

Around the heritage monument

The stones on the floor and along the circular boundary wall of the Stupa have various inscriptions in Brahmi or Pali script. They carry the names of the donors who donated to them. Guess how old is this tradition of advertising your name for eternity through a small donation.

Other Stupas at Sanchi

There are tiny stupas-like structures scattered around the big stupa. These are votive stupas installed by the people whose wishes were fulfilled after praying at the Stupa.

Stupa 3

Apart from Stupa 1, Stupa 3 is the only well-preserved stupa. It is a smaller version of the Great Stupa, smaller in height and radius but following the same design. It has similar balustrades going around the stupa. In fact, an inscription says that both the balustrades were sponsored by the same person.

Stupa 3 has one Toran or gateway. It is believed that bone relics of Sariputra and Maudgalyayana, students of Gautam Buddha are buried here.

It has been dated to the 2nd BCE.

Monasteries

On the west of Stupa 1, the stairs take you down to a plain area, with a slanted wall. There is a huge water tank and the ruins of a monastery. Monastery 51 is almost square in shape with rooms all around and a central courtyard.

Numbered 46 and 47, these two monasteries were discovered during very recent excavations.

Ruins of many other structures including temples can be seen around these monasteries.

Stupa 2

Another set of stairs would take you down to Stupa 2. It is similar to Stupa 3 and has 4 entrances but without any decorative Toran. Its balustrades are well preserved though.

On the way, you would see a huge begging bowl.

There are lots of small stupas in the south and east of Stupa 1. They belong to the disciples of Buddha. Some of these stupas have a square base. Indicating that they are from the Gupta period, by virtue of the architecture.

Stupa 5 has an image of Buddha in Dhyan Mudra or meditation pose.

Earliest Temples at the complex

The heritage complex has some of the earliest known temple structures dating back to the Gupta and Mauryan periods. These are the earliest seeds of the North Indian temple architecture style.

Temple 18 is a 7th CE apsidal-shaped temple that would have stood on 12 pillars and a raised platform. You can see glimpses of Chaitya Griha seen at Ajanta caves or Ellora.

Temple 17 has a square sanctum with a flat roof and a portico. Portico pillars have a lion capital. Doorjambs have floral decorative patterns. I have seen similar patterns at the same-era temples at Ramtek in Maharashtra. This has elements of Gupta Architecture.

Temple 9 is similar to Temple 17.

The 31st temple is an oblong temple with pillars and a flat roof with a Buddha image that does not seem to belong there.

Temple 40 has elements of three different periods from the 3rd BCE to the 8th CE.

Travel Tips

Like most UNESCO world heritage sites, this place is also well maintained with green lawns. Each and every stupa and temple are well numbered.

Tourist guides are available. We were lucky to get a guide who was a student of archaeology and could explain many things. I recommend the world heritage series guides by ASI as the best for detailed information on the monuments.

Gateway Retreat, the MP Tourism hotel is within walking distance. You can easily go for a morning walk to the stupa from here.

Sunrise and sunset are the best times to visit the place. It helps you escape the heat of Indian planes. You can also admire Stupa with sun rays falling on it, almost giving a feeling of being made of sandalwood instead of stone.

For photo enthusiasts, it is a good time to capture good pictures. There is a certain serenity that you would feel during the mornings and evenings. If you are lucky you will get to see a lot of peacocks in the mornings.

As you stand on the hill, you can hear and see the trains going past the hill. If you are going from Delhi to Bhopal, you can see the Stupa on your left. Just keep an eye out for it after you pass the Vidisha station.

Bhopal is the closest airport and a well-connected hub of rail and road transport.