Big is not something that you associate with Mumbai, especially when it comes to the size of its physical structures. Global Vipassana Pagoda in the Northern suburbs of the city is going to change that.
Largest Stone Dome
It is the largest stone dome in the world with no supporting pillars. Double the size of the next biggest dome, which incidentally is not too far away in Bijapur. Made of Rajasthan sandstone with each weighing 600-700 kgs. And joined by interlocking and lime mortar only is an engineering marvel. The green surroundings add to the vastness of the structure. From the distance, it almost looks like a giant golden bell lying in the open grounds. Painted Golden the dome can be viewed from quite some distance. Should form a good view from the air, though am not sure if it falls in an air corridor or not. Global Vipassana Pagoda is popularly known as Golden Pagoda, Pagoda Mumbai, etc.
Global Vipassana Pagoda
The Pagoda is done in typical Buddhist colors of Gold and Red. The ceilings of the outside corridor are red with golden engravings. People who have done the Vipassana course are allowed to go inside the Pagoda and do meditation. For others, there is a visitor’s gallery from which you can see inside the Pagoda. You would be awed by the sheer size of the dome. Right in the center of the dome is a golden Dharma Chakra. The relics of Buddha are supposed to be on top of it.
Sri Lanka and the Mahabodhi Society of India have donated the Buddha relics for the pagoda. With his relics being spread across so many pagodas being built lately, I wonder how much of the real thing really remains. The structure is modeled on Shwe Dagon Pagoda in Yangon, Myanmar. The periphery of the structure has spiritual messages written in Hindi, Marathi, and English. There is supposed to be a big crystal on top of the Pagoda that my camera and I could not locate.
It is said that about 8000 people can meditate here in one go. I wonder if meditation can be or should be done in a congregation of this size. A replica of the Ashoka pillar is being erected at the back of the pagoda. The capital on top is a replica of the one at Sarnath with 4 lions and a golden Dhamma Chakra at the top. 2 small pagodas will flank the main pagoda and they would also be used for meditation. There is a fairly huge Buddha statue in dhyana mudra wearing a golden robe.
Paintings of the Life of Buddha
A paintings gallery has more than 200 paintings showcasing the events in the life of Buddha. The paintings have been done very well but the name of the artist(s) is not there. You can spend quite some time here admiring the paintings and also walking through Buddha’s life. There is a simple food court where the food was very good and reasonably priced. There are boards telling you about the fact that the course offered is completely free and so is the entry to the pagoda. At the same time asking you to contribute to various ongoing projects of the organization.
The land has been donated by a student who some people guess is businessman Subhash Chandra, the owner of neighboring Essel World. The project has been spearheaded and funded by the Global Vipassana Foundation. You wonder how there is never any dearth of money for the pet projects of religious leaders.
Construction ongoing
As the construction work is still on the premises, we saw a lot of laborers working in really unsafe conditions. There was a group of workers welding on a ceiling without wearing any eye protection or even helmets. We tried telling the supervisor to at least buy them simple goggles to avoid eye injury. We were ignored as if an illiterate was trying to tell something to a scholar. What an irony! Building a place for meditation based on the principles of Buddha who professed nothing but compassion. Ignoring the basic human rights of the people who are physically building it. I wonder what Mr. Goenka would have to say on this, or his eyes are just glistening with the golden glow of the piece of a legacy he is going to leave behind.
Salt Pans
On the way to the Pagoda, do not miss the heaps of salt on both sides of the road. On a pleasant evening, they made a good site. Being far away from the usual tourist places in Mega City, you will have to make a special trip to see this pagoda. Maybe you can club it with the trip to Essel World or Gorai Beach.
Recommend you to read the following Travel Blogs on Places to Visit in Mumbai.
Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum – Celebrating the City
Banganga Tank – Ancient Heritage
Exploring the Street Art in Bandra
Great pics……………..
I was at the Stone laying Ceremony of this centre. There was nothing at that time there, just the hill, many Buddhist monks from Vietnam and Burma and about 100 of us from India who were already meditators. Goenka ji and others placed stones/relics from pagodas from other parts of the world, like Burma etc, and then we sat in silent meditation for an hour. This pagoda is supposed to house 10,000 meditators, maybe more.
There is a feeling of anguish in your voice in the write, which I quite understand. However, may I clarify that Sri Goenka ji comes from a very wealthy family himself – the Goenkas, the Indian Express and other publications owners. He himself was born in Burma and continued to work there, running the Sugar and other mills in the family projects in Burma, till he found Vipassana. Then he came to India and gave birth to so many Centres the most famous being Igatpuri. 10,000 people meditating in the same place is okay, that is initial stage. After that one is in the cell under the pagoda or in single spaces. Vipassana is quite a breakthrough method and one has to do it to know how it works. This said, it is fairly okay to meditate in a group, however small or large. I do not know him personally, but know people close to him. At the ground level, there are people looking after the day to day work; he is involved with the spread and the practice only. I am glad you brought out some critical issues here, but that should not deter the interested.