Ukhimath, a quaint town situated at about 1,300 meters in the Rudraprayag district, was ready to tell me the epic tales of the Himalayas. Popularly, known as the winter seat of Baba Kedarnath and Madhyamaheshwar – two of the five Panch Kedar temples – this place is important for Char Dham Yatris.
We drove up the serpentine roads of Uttarakhand’s Garhwal region, along the Mandakini River, inhaling the crisp mountain air. It was like playing hide and seek with the Chaukhamba range of Himalayas as their snow-capped peaks appeared and disappeared. Soon the Sun joined in the game giving us some breathtaking divine vistas to soak in.
Legends of Ukhimath
Ukhimath derives its name from Usha, the daughter of the Asura Banasur, who once resided here. She was married to Sri Krishna’s grandson Annirudhha. It is believed that their wedding took place at the Omkareshwar temple here. You can indeed see their Vivaha Mandap in the temple complex.
Another legend connects this temple to Mandhata, a king of Ikshavaku vamsha and an ancestor of Sri Rama of Ayodhya. It is believed that he performed intense Tapasya here. Pleased with his penance, Shiva appeared before him in the form of Omkareshwar. This is how he is worshipped here. Even today, this place seems just perfect for peaceful contemplation.
Visiting Omkareshwar Temple
At the heart of Ukhimath is the colorful and vibrant Omkareshwar Temple. This ancient temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva as Omkareshwar. It acts as the winter home for the deities of Kedarnath and Madhyamaheshwar from November to April, when heavy snowfall renders the higher temples inaccessible.
The first thing you notice as you enter the temple is its local architecture. The doorway is intricately carved in wood and painted in vibrant colours against the pink walls, making it stand out against the Himalayas. A Garhwali dhol was being played as I entered the temple. The temple stands on a tall platform with a colorfully painted mandapa leading you inside from one side.
The temple itself is in stone with a typical Nagara style Shikhara with a wooden copula on top – a characteristic of the hill temples.
On the white walls of the platforms, colorful panels have shlokas from the scriptures like the first shloka of Ishavasya Upannishad. One of these is Ushamath Mahatmya that tells that the place where Usha, Aniruddha, Chitralekha – the friend of Usha, Omkareshwar, Varahi, Chandika and Mandhata live, their darshan and puja will give you whatever you want.
Garbhagriha
Main temple has a Shivalinga representing Shiva as Omkareshwar. Since I visited after the Kedarnath doors were closed, I could see the Utsava Murti of Kedarnath sitting right next to the Omkareshwar. You also see the presence of Mandhata inside the garbhgriha. On the side of the mandapa, you see the five Murtis representing the Panch Kedar. These are Kedarnath, Madhyameshwar, Tunganath, Rudranath and Kalpeshwar where Shiva is believed to have his body spread out. It is said that if you can not visit them in their respective abodes, Ukhimath is the place to see them together at one place.
Read More – Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga Temple On Banks Of Narmada
It was the evening Arti time and I could peacefully attend the Arti with a handful pf pilgrims and locals. The most beautiful part was the Shuddha Sanskrit being used to chant mantras with the right way to chant them. A Rudra Abhishek is performed every morning and you can participate in it. Even if you do not go to temple, the chants of it will reach your ears in the morning.
Usha Mandapa
Surrounding the temple are corridors on one side with temples dedicated to Kunti, Pandavas and 12 jyotirlingas. On the other side a gateway leads to the Usha Mandapa where the wedding of Usha Anniruddha took place. The third side has administrative rooms, all colorful and vibrant.
Usha Mandapa has a colorful courtyard surrounded by a running corridor on all sides on two floors. It reminded me of old Havelis in places like Kashi an Ayodhya. This is where the weddings still take place and I thought how beautiful it would be to make a commitment surrounded by divine forces. There is Sri Himvat Kedar Vairagya Simhasan Mahapeetha also in a room here. In the one room in the corner, you see the copper plate Murtis of many deities that are taken out during the procession. A Chandika mandir here is powerful, you can literally feel her vibes here.
Annual Rituals
Priest narrated how the Murti of Kedarnath arrived just a few days back and now the temple is awaiting the Murti of Madhyameshwar for the winters. I soaked in the devotion of Himalayas that rotates around the daily and annual rituals of the deities. It was like hearing a grandma talking about her children’s annual schedules where some come and some stay where they are.
I walked back at twilight, as the lights of the Himalayan villages came up lighting the hills like sky. In the morning the chants of Rudra Abhishek woke up the snow-clad peaks as the sun rose.
I would always remember Ukhimath as the place where so many stories intersect, where Panch Kedar come together.
Travel Tips
Ukhimath is 41 kms. from Rudraprayag and 13 kms. from Guptkashi. It is situated at an elevation of 1311 mts so plan for the cold weather.
There are plenty of boarding and lodging options available within the walking distance of Omkareshwar temple.
No photography is allowed inside the temple or the Usha Mandapa.
